HUMAN PENGUINS?

We are seeing a lot more action on the beaches.  Although, not so much the beaches - we have always encountered someone walking on the beaches, even on colder, blustery days.  However, there is now a noticeable difference in numbers of people actually taking to the water and swimming, diving, and snorkeling. 

We have been told that locals don't typically use the beaches from Labor Day in September right through to May 24 which is Bermuda Day.  Word is that any temperature reading under 80 degrees Fahrenheit is considered far too cold for them.    In the summer months, sea temperature is an average of 80 degrees F, and warmest in August at about 85 degrees F. Agreeable temperatures for all, hence lots of locals on beaches everywhere.

In the winter months of November and December the temperature takes a dip to about 70.   January to April usually registers a frigid 66 degrees F.   Now, we didn't swim from January to April either, but I have it on good authority that swimming is still excellent at 70 to 80 degrees F - can't say I disagree.  It just takes that inch-by-inch torture and the final dunk and I can do it too I am sure. 

So until January, I will join the throngs of ex-pats for an invigorating bathe in the ocean, whilst the locals look on aghast. 

There's a reason that Bermudians call Canadians "human penguins".  

BERMUDA DAY 2016

Bermuda Day falls on May 24th.  It used to be called Victoria Day and then Commonwealth Day.  The island is not an independent nation as it still falls under the British Overseas Territories.   However, it is internally self-governing with an island parliament.  The Head of State in Bermuda is the Governor appointed by the Prime Minister of  England and represents the British monarch Queen Elizabeth II.  The current Governor is George Fergusson who has been in office since 2012. 

The current head of Bermuda government is the Premier, Mr. Michael Dunkley.  There is a House of Assembly, with 40 elected members, as well as a Senate with 11 appointed members.  There is also a system of local government with the island divided into nine parishes, each one headed up by an elected Mayor. 

We live in St. George - claim to fame is that it is the fifth oldest municipality in the Western hemisphere founded by British Admiral Sir George Somers in 1609.  Earlier municipalities include St. John's Newfoundland, Annapolis Royal in Nova Scotia and Montreal.  Pretty long history I would say and nice to see the connection to Canada.

So much for history.  On this day in 2016, we found ourselves bouncing along on the winding lanes on a bus headed to Hamilton to watch the day's festivities.  Parking is not our friend on busy days in Hamilton.  It seems everyone else had made the same decision to attend, as we arrived to banks of people lining the main thoroughfares of Front Street, Queen and Church Streets.  Obviously settled for the day, families were parked under huge shade tents and umbrellas, armed with large coolers, and copious amounts of pop and ice. 

We sat watching a somewhat disorderly parade of various dance groups, bands and cheerleaders.  A very happy crowd observing very relaxed and happy participants.  Met the Gombeys for the first time:  a very unusual group of musicians and dancers.   Dancers can be traced to a mix of Afro-Caribbean and Native American influences.  In a tribute to history - all of the body and faces of the dancers are covered to avoid identification, as slave-owners frowned upon the practice of their slaves participating as Gombeys.  Lots of use of drums and bottle-whistles that soon had the crowds dancing and swaying to the beat.  

All in all, a great day celebrating with  Bermudians. 

HITTING THE BEACHES

Quest - to walk or swim on every beach possible in Bermuda.  We made some headway on Saturday - a worthwhile afternoon, despite the wind and the overcast skies.  We started with the southern shores of the island and drove westward. 

We came upon Elbow Beach first - a fabulous long shore line with sand as soft as corn flour, and the water a sparkling turquoise blue.  With the wind up the waves dominated, creating a white surf of warm water.   It is a very popular beach for families with young children, as well as kite surfers.  Then it was on to Warwick Long Bay - an even longer stretch of sand that reflected a soft hue of pink. Less busy than Elbow, perhaps because of a strong undercurrent.  Finally, we stopped at Horseshoe Bay - a real mecca for tourists and residents alike.   A toddlers delight is the little tidal pool sheltered from the waves by tall volcanic rocks.  Parking for buses, taxis and cars and a little beachside eatery called Rum Bum Beach Bar.  We had a great burger lunch for a reasonable price.     

We had heard of the "pink beaches" of Bermuda - and it really is true - not every beach mind - but those south shore beauties boast a definite showing of pink.  According to my research this occurs where there is a lot of wave action and reefs that are close to shore.  In a symbiotic dance with nature, the waves deposit the skeletons of tiny, bright red organisms called Red Foram or Foraminifera that had previously clung to the undersides of reefs.  They wash up on the beaches and mix with white sand, and pounded coral and shells to create the distinctive pink sand.  

As an aside, we will not be able to use the car in the height of summer when everyone will have the same idea as us and there is very little parking anywhere.  Horseshoe probably has the most parking at about 30 or 40 spots. Other than that we found parking for just 2 to 5 cars usually.  Sometimes it will mean just pulling over and parking on a grass verge - which are few and far between.  So it will be the bike or the bus for most of our trips to the beach.

 

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

Driving around the island, I am struck by the quaint and whimsical street names that pop out at every curve of the narrow roads.  How could you not be smiling when you meander down Happy Talk Lane?   What about Finger Point Road - surely there must be something at the end of that road to satisfy the curious - what might it be pointing out?  Billy Goat Hill - a reminder of childhood nursery rhymes surely?  Maybe even Witchery Drive, or Step Mother Drive, and Old Maids Lane.

Slippery Hill, or Wreck Hill - watch out there!.   Then there is Featherbed Alley, and Sleepy Hollow Drive.  What about Sofar Lane, or Well Bottom Lane?  Can you imagine the cottages in Tea Rose Lane?  Not so sure about Smallpox Bay.  Maybe not the longwinded Scribes and Pharisees either.  Did someone just get tired of naming new streets - No Name Lane?  The unique:  Cockroach Rock, Monkey Hole, Hungry Bay Lane.   The sentimental: Peace Haven Drive, Loyalty Lane.  No doubt there is a story behind Pain Lane and Suffering Lane - in close proximity to each other no less. 

Some distinctly military type road names attesting to a bygone era when Bermuda was a British Navy stronghold - like Grenadier Lane, Soldier Point, Sentinel Hill, Redcoat Lane, Military Road, Khyber Pass, Gunner Bay, Battery Close.  Add the piratical to that as well - Pieces of Eight Alley.

And then there are some of the island names: World's End Island, or Stipple Island.  Followed by Rabbit, Mouse, Duck, Goose, Hen and Turtle Islands. - sounds like someone was going to bat for the more humble animals.  And not to leave out the quaint: Little Crumb Island, and Little Rogue Island.

And last, but not least: we live on Convict Bay Lane.

A LITTLE BIT OF HOME

On Sunday, we spent a leisurely morning in the living room pottering around and relaxing on a bit of a rainy and overcast day.  When, lo and behold, we look out the window and what do we see but two mine sweepers gliding by.  Too interesting to miss the opportunity of getting a better up close look at them, we sauntered down to the dock to check them out.

What a sight to see - two Canadian ships with Canadian flags fluttering about in the wind and the decks of both filled with busy sailors.  The Moncton and the Saskatoon both in the harbor on their way to exercises down south apparently.

According to Wikipedia, they are known as coastal defense vessels that were launched in the 1990's.  They are used for coastal surveillance, sovereignty patrol, route survey, counter narcotics and training.  Their original role was supposed to be that of minesweeping.

Quite imposing and just lovely to see a little bit of home.

FIRST BIKE RIDE

Patrick came home a little early today so - for my first time - we hopped on the bike and made our way to Tobacco Bay.  
A bit hair raising - I haven't been on the back of a motor bike since my early twenties.  Many years and a much wiser brain tells me that caution is required.  The roads are very narrow and winding, and even though Patrick was puttering along at the sedate speed of about 40 kilometers per hour, it still felt like I was on a racetrack.  Every time the bike banked to enter a turn my heart lurched.   Every time I looked ahead I was grateful that traffic on the right kept to their side.   So much to worry about - the speed, the corners, the winding roads, the narrowness, the bus coming at us, what if he has a speed wobble, this helmet is suffocating - all those thoughts and more were going a mile a minute in my head - felt like the gyrations of a washing machine - round and round at high speed. 



Five minutes after we started, a real feeling of relief when we pulled up at Tobacco Bay. Had a great swim in warm and calm waters.  And then the trip home again - felt somewhat better.  Maybe I will get used to this - scratch that - will have to get used to this, as there are many places on the island that just do not cater for cars. 

WHITE ROOFS

Geologically speaking, Bermuda originated from submerged oceanic volcanoes.  A limestone cap was formed and due to the porosity of limestone, rainwater very quickly drains right through to mix with the salt water in the water table.  Added to that problem, is that there are no freshwater rivers or lakes - all standing water ponds are brackish in taste because of the mixture of rain water with salt water.   Despite the lack of fresh water, the island is green and lush with tropical plants - because of a consistently high rain fall throughout the year. Bermuda really depends on weather for its survival. 

In order for people to thrive on Bermuda, an ingenious method of accumulating rain water was devised by settlers 350 years ago.   To this day, inhabitants collect water from the roofs of their houses.  Roofs are typically made of white limestone and have grooves or furrows.   These limestone roofs serve to capture the rain water, filter the water as it passes through the limestone grooves (limestone providing bleaching effect), and finally storing it in underground tanks as drinking water.

This is still the most widely used method of creating drinking water in the island where there is no fresh water lake or supply source. The underground reservoirs are generally created under the bedrooms or living room and not under the kitchen or bathrooms. However, in the earlier days the water tanks were created above the ground and were made of stones structures. There is also a system whereby seawater is created into purified water by a process of reverse osmosis (don't ask me how that works).  There are also wells dotted all over the island, but the water can only be used for washing and flushing.

By law, all private dwellings, apartment complexes and businesses must have their own water tanks to collect and store rainfall - the size of which is mandated by local regulations. Homes can store about 14,000 gallons per bedroom.  Perhaps this is one of the reasons for the exorbitant prices of homes as the cost to build these tanks is the responsibility of each property owner. The import duty of about 30% on all building materials can result in much higher costs for construction.  Also wondering how they keep the water pure and clean in the tanks?

Most property owners keep their roofs in pristine condition so that water remains clean.  It is a common sight to see painters on rooftops making sure that the roofs continue to sparkle and gleam in the sunshine.   Also, we often see Government water trucks that can come and top up water tanks between rain falls. 

Style and substance in all those white roofs.  A sight to behold.

FAIR WINDS AND FOLLOWING SEAS

Bermuda is a popular cruise ship destination - it is seasonal, as the island is in the northern hemisphere - 1,200 miles north of the Caribbean islands and therefore, temperatures tend to take a dip during the winter months.   High season is considered to be between April and November.  About 150 cruises will dock through 2016 bringing with them thousands of tourists who disembark to enjoy the sights of Bermuda during their stopover here.     The biggest liners will end up at Royal Naval Dockyard, with some of the smaller ones berthing dockside in the capital city Hamilton or at St. George's where we live.

You always know when a cruise ship has arrived as you are greeted by an exponential increase in people on the streets and buses - they are a distinct breed clad in shorts, sneakers and t-shirts, wearing wide brimmed hats, clicking cameras and cell phones, and sporting a mostly bright pink sun tan.

Patrick was down at Docklands the other day and watched the Anthem of the Seas disgorge it's 4,500 passengers, crew not counted.  It is the largest cruise ship to come to Bermuda.  Not the biggest in the world mind - that distinction belongs to Harmony of the Seas with its 8,000 crew and pax capacity.   According to the Bernews, the Anthem of the Seas is 136 feet wide, and 1,141 feet long.  That's gigantic in my opinion .   Sounds like a veritable floating city.  Off loading must be a long waiting affair, and I can't imagine enough buses or taxis on call to accommodate those numbers. 

Patrick and I took a trip by ferry to Docklands last week.  While Patrick attended a meeting, I had a fun afternoon mixing in with the cruise passengers from a Norwegian liner.  Docklands has been developed to cater to the cruise population - a small mall, a Bermudian craft warehouse, sea-doo rentals and Segway fun, as well as a few restaurants.  

As we were boarding the ferry for our journey back to Hamilton, the cruise ship was gracefully setting sail  again, gently guided by tugboats nosing it out into the channel.  I couldn't help thinking how intimidating it was.  Such a huge structure and so many people on board.

Wishing them all fair winds and following seas.

DISTINCTIVELY BERMUDIAN

A sight that stills stands out for me is the male business attire on the island: Bermuda shorts in a rainbow of hues.  It makes quite a statement after watching the average businessman in any other city in the world making their way to work in the usual dark suit and tie.  

Apparently the trend began with British Navy officers in early 1900's stationed in Bermuda that gradually became a traditional formal wear.  Now, the Bermuda Shorts is a mainstay of the island's national dress and acceptable as formal wear for businessmen.  Bermudian national attire has even put a unique stamp on their appearance in the opening ceremonies of the Olympic Games. 

It makes perfect sense given the weather -particularly the heat and humidity at the height of summer.  Makes you wonder why no other country has emulated this fashion statement - how about it guys? - start the trend in Toronto for relief from the heat and humidity of July and August at least.  Or some of the okes in Joeys - it might not be humid, but it sure gets hot, and Durban - here's a shout out for you fellas - the perfect weather for it.  

My other question though, is why not go that step further - why the tie, dark jacket and long socks?  The jacket you can take off at the office I suppose, but what about that tie gathered in its tight, restrictive knot at your neck?  And black socks, to the knees as well - why not sandals?  Perhaps it is a way to distinguish the businessmen from the vacationers - this still says "I'm serious, not frivolous". 

Patrick has slid right into the trend - all the men wear shorts to his office - they have taken it that little step further though - golf shirts and deck shoes. 

No wonder life is more relaxed here! 

"RAIN, RAIN, GO AWAY"

The title of this blog is not a refrain that is heard much from Bermudians.  The island has no dams or rivers.   A few tiny lakes or ponds are dotted around, but are mostly brackish and surrounded by mangroves.  On the whole, if not for rain, the island would be inhospitable and uninhabitable. 

So, despite our occasional grumbling, it is a good thing that the island has a consistently high rainfall throughout the year.  We found that from December to March, the island experienced rain just about every day, in all it's different varieties.  January is considered to be the wettest month with about 150 millimetres, or 6 inches of rain.  At least the temperatures are usually a balmy 20 to 25 degrees Celsius, so that even if you get soaked at least you are not freezing cold as well. 

   Dark, full-bodied clouds gather on the horizon and roll in to produce anything from a water-soaking bucket down, or a thunder and lightning epic display.  Sometimes we get the fine drizzle type accompanied by fog and low lying grey cloud that seems as if it will settle in for days, and that leaves us staring out the window wondering when it will pass over the 2 mile wide island.  More often than not, it is a light, drenching downpour that peters out after an hour or so.  And once the sun peeks out again,  you can resume the usual outdoor routine.    

Because of the risk of rain on any given day, we always have access to our trusty umbrellas and rain jackets - either at the front door or in the car boot, or a backpack.  We will have to re-invest in a golf umbrella as the winds that sometimes accompany the rain quickly turn the feeble umbrellas inside out and are of no use. 

I have to say that I feel really sorry for Patrick when it starts to rain early in the day, when he has to don the cumbersome rain gear and bright safety vest for the ride into work by bike - I think I have to research bike helmets with windshield wipers on them for the future.  

Here's a double rainbow after a recent thunderstorm.

SEA GLASS TREASURE

I have discovered sea glass at some of Bermuda's beaches.  They lie in iridescent splendor - standing out from the sea sand in a myriad of  glinting, frosted greens, browns and whites.  Smooth to the touch, in all shapes and sizes, they are instantly appealing.

Bermuda happens to be one of the most popular sources of sea glass, and it can be found on a few select beaches here.  They are the product of landfill sites, and shipwrecks, and, if I am to be blunt, from the laissez-faire attitude of beach lovers and boaters everywhere, who nonchalantly toss that empty wine, beer or pop bottle into the ocean.  

Worn by waves, tumbled in sea sand, and carried by tides in a multitude of glistening and gleaming pieces to shorelines everywhere - a manmade artifact refined and returned from the sea.  According to my research, it can take between 7 and 10 years for broken pieces of bottle or jar to produce the frosted, smooth-edged surfaces of authentic pieces of sea glass.  It has become a collectors item: a hobby for some and a source of income for others.  There are many artists who work with sea glass to produce beautiful jewelry and distinctive artwork.

Most sea glass comes from glass bottles and jars, but pottery, ceramics, plates, flat glass from windows and windshields, pictures and painting frames, also provide lots of shards for collection.   

The value of sea glass is determined by its colour.  The most common colours are green, brown, opaque white, and clear glass.  The less common colours come from glass produced for whiskey or medicine bottles - a jade or amber colour.  Others are lime green, forest green or ice blue from pop bottles, fruit jars and ink bottles that were popular prior to the 1960's.    Rare finds are red, purple, cobalt or cornflower blue - remember the Milk of Magnesia bottles and Vicks containers from years gone by.  And yellow, black, or orange are the rarest of them all. 

I have become a collector - I love standing on the edge of the waves, watching for shapes or colours that catch my eye.  Or digging my feet and hands into the wet sand, uncovering pieces that have been bedded down for awhile.  Not sure what I will do with them, but for now it's adding to the quiet and peaceful ocean side lifestyle. 

TREE FROG CHORUS

There is a very distinctive chorus that can be heard each night on the island.  The call of the little tree frog - it starts up each evening as the sun sets and can be heard all night wherever you are.  I think they are delightful, but apparently they irritate some people.  I love listening to them - sounds like a cacophony of whistleblowers.  We have looked for them to no avail - you can hear them loud and clear, but they are very shy, and very small.  Even though the evening light has changed to summertime hours, the orchestra begins in the early evening, reaching full voice once the stars are out.  The chorus continues until early morning providing a melodious wake up alarm.  Even during the day, if it is raining, you will hear the refrain being taken up again - perhaps due to a combination of low light,  and moisture.  Whenever you hear them though - a special and unique sound for Bermuda.

Here is an excerpt I found from a local Bermuda sight - they say it better than I ever could:

"If you have been to Bermuda, you are familiar with the whistling night call of the infamous Tree Frog. Only about the size of a thumbnail, the tree frogs are slight in stature but big in presence. If you are lucky to see one, you will be surprised to discover that such a big noise can come from such a small amphibian.
There are two species of Whistling Frogs (Tree Frogs) in Bermuda. The Eleutherodactylus johnstonei and Eleutherodactylus gossei, the first of the two is more common and smaller while the other has almost disappeared. Both are brownish, nocturnal, living in trees near the ground and by day hiding under stones and leaf litter.
They are one of the most characteristic night sounds of Bermuda between April and November. They can be heard island-wide when the weather is warm enough but are most common in the Parishes of Devonshire, Paget, Pembroke and Warwick.
They are not indigenous – both were introduced accidentally sometime prior to 1880, most likely on orchids imported from the Lesser Antilles. They can be found elsewhere in temperate and sub-tropical regions, but mainly can be found singing loudly at night.
Many visitors are not used to the whistling song, a loud bell-like chorus, of these tiny and harmless creatures. Some visitors say it disturbs their sleep but others love it because it adds a unique sound to the atmosphere. Their song is the sound of males trying to attract females.
Whistling frogs do not require standing water for breeding but pass through their tadpole stage within the egg itself. Clusters of eggs are laid in damp situations among rotting vegetation or under stones."
http://www.bermuda.com/bermuda-tree-frogs/

ANTS IN YOUR TEAPOT ANYONE?

I landed in Johannesburg, South Africa on March 31, 2016 for a much anticipated two week visit with family - a special time devoted to family get-togethers with my mother, and my brothers and their families.  Unfortunately, I was the only member of our family in Canada able to make this one.

This year marks our 30th year of landed immigrant status in Canada.  I contemplate the reality that Patrick and I have spent as long living in Canada as we lived in South Africa.  We have a foothold on two continents with vastly different styles of living.  We cling to both I think - perhaps it's a 'head vs heart' thing.


We made our first return journey in 1996 and since then have managed to get back every two years or so - either 'en famille', together as a couple, or just one of us.  That's at least 10 trips over a period of twenty years.  It certainly has helped us stay connected and bonded with the people we love.  It has also helped to salve the wounds of separation and feelings of isolation and culture shock as we continue to navigate our path in our chosen land. 

As soon as the plane touches down you know you are in Africa, and back in the land of your birth. This visit was no different - the beauty of African landscapes and sunsets, the earthy smell of the veld, the call of the hadeda ibis, the drama of the Highveld thunderstorm.  And then there are the everyday delights of familiar accents, mall ambling, and visits to old haunts.  There's also a sadness at the daily witness of poverty, crime, fear and political uncertainty.  Mostly, it's a tremendous appreciation for family connections - sitting with my 'boet' as if we do it every day, making tea for my mom, just catching up with 'sisters', so that it feels like you have never left. 

Every time we come here, I am struck by the vicissitudes of the African lifestyle and attitude to life.  As always though, my homeland wraps itself around my heart like a comforting down duvet.  I marvel at its softness and warmth, its strength and depths of resilience.  It seems to me that South Africans in general are a hard working, resilient nation; adept at problem-solving and making the most of what they have.  Capable of accepting the curveballs that life throws their way: risking all, being creative and flexible.  Best of all - having realistic expectations that can be remolded to fit the situation - bleak or blissful - whatever is demanded.  This attitude was poignantly obvious at the beautiful Tuscany Bed and Breakfast hotel we have stayed at since about 2000.  Sitting in the dining room eating a sumptuous breakfast with other guests, the owner does a quick shout out: "Does anyone have ants in their teapot - I can give it a quick rinse if you would like".

Ah, my heart still lives in Africa. 

TOUCHDOWNS

March was a whirlwind of touchdowns - at airports in Toronto, Amsterdam and Johannesburg, with friends, with daughters, with my mother and brothers, and most of all with grandbabies. 

What a pleasure to anticipate the patter of tiny feet up the attic stairwell at 6.30 am in the morning and that quiet whisper: "Nana can I come and lie with you?" and the inevitable "Can we watch Wheels on the Bus?".  This was a daily wake up call and then up to an hour watching the video whilst singing along to old and new nursery rhymes.... that then proceeded to reverberate in my head for hours afterwards.  The rest of the day was spent in the comings and goings of a busy family life that constitutes daily routine with two children aged 3 and 18 months.  Visits to the Toronto Zoo, Chapters and play zones were highlights.

Managed to connect with some friends to catch up again.  Did a few chores along the way. Got rid of two cars.  With relief - settled tenant/rental issues.  Packed up five suitcases for the house in Bermuda - bliss - last time feeling like a packhorse. 

Finally, the last touchdown at Bermuda airport, safely through customs, taxi home and a quiet dinner right on the edge of the wharf.

Still think this is going to be a wonderful adventure.