YOU KNOW YOU LIVE ON AN ISLAND WHEN....

*   you are within walking distance of the ocean no matter where you live

*   you enjoy summerlike weather on most days of the year

*   you are not surprised to find skinks and spiders on your interior walls

*   you can climb on any bus and it will eventually get you to the city (euphemism for small town)

*   you have no access to franchised food joints anywhere

*   you discover sea sand can get into all sorts of unexpected niches - like cameras, sandwiches and ears and always coupled with never ending sweeping

*   'manana' has become both an art form and a fashion statement

*   you don't have any winter coats in your closet

*   you drive on laneways that are so narrow you have to pull over for buses or large vehicles

*   you never see big rigs and tractor trailers on the roads as they would never fit

*   you know you'd have a hard time being a 'missing person' for long

*   you realize that  you are surrounded by as many boats and yachts as there are houses

*   you pass people on the street and almost without fail, they greet you with "Good Morning/Afternoon, how are you?" 

*   a traffic jam consists of ten cars waiting at the traffic light at 4.30 pm

*   when peak hour driving lasts for half an hour

*   you can't find a freeway or highway anywhere

*   you are surprisingly content to drive along at the 35km per hour speed limit because of   narrow roads and constant s-bends  (maybe just a tad over the limit)

*   you notice everybody seems to know everybody else

*   you know there's a cruise ship docked because the population almost doubles in size

*   you see wide loads delivered by tug rather than by truck

*   honking horns is a tribute to friendship rather than a warning of danger

*   you get used to seeing grown men in colourful shorts, long socks, ties and jackets 

*   you are pitifully grateful when the internet doesn't crash at least once a day

*   you become immune to the price of fresh fruit and vegetables

*   you time it so that you buy your fruit and vegetables the day after the container ship has docked from the mainland 

*   you can jump for joy because your personal tax rate is 5%

*   you don't have to join a gym to exercise as there are plenty of places to walk or swim nearby

*   you come to terms with the knowledge that 'island fever' really does exist

*   you can't believe just how relaxed you can feel

Take me to the island!

WATCH OUT: HURRICANE NICOLE

Hurricane season is upon us.  Theoretically speaking, I suppose they are technically just very severe storms.  Witnessing one and feeling the effects of another has changed my mind.  Hurricanes are truly a different and ferocious breed.

This blog is in honour of our direct experience of Hurricane Nicole.  The disastrous effects of Hurricane Matthew have already been shared.  


Over the course of our adventure on the island, we have come to experience the vagaries of many different weather systems.  In terms of rain showers; we have walked in the pleasant drizzle of a light cloudburst.  We have run for cover from the downpour of a sudden thunderstorm, and stayed indoors from looming black clouds and flashing lightning. 

We have watched tropical storms whip waves into a frothing frenzy and bring them crashing down onto sea walls.  Yachts bob like corks in their wake.  Beaches can be swept clean, leaving pristine white sands denuded of shells, seaweed and flotsam.  Sometimes it's as if the ocean regurgitates all the unwanted debris and your next walk on the beach becomes a treasure trove of questionable delights.  

And then we were introduced to Hurricane Nicole.  It just does not begin to compare to our usual experience of a 'storm'.

We followed Emergency Services directives prior to the onslaught - tied down the kayak, brought balcony furniture in, boiled eggs, grilled steaks, bought extra milk and water.  Made sure we had candles, batteries, etc.  We filled the baths with water (if the power shuts down it might be for days, which in turn shuts down water services, hence the need for a water reservoir).   We even have a hurricane lamp and crank radio at the ready.

And then She arrived.  On the 13th October 2016, Bermuda experienced Hurricane Nicole at a Category 4 level.  The eye of Hurricane Nicole was estimated at 30 miles in diameter - Bermuda slotted neatly into the eye at 22 miles in length.   What amazes me is that we are a tiny blip on a map in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean - how come the eye of a hurricane has to choose to hone in on us?  

So we stayed indoors as directed, and watched as driving rain pounded the windows, rattled doors and hurled debris everywhere.  Winds blew trees over, seemingly dragging them out by the roots.  Yachts were tossed up onto shorelines, or sunk in the bays.  Scooters were overturned and roofs leaked. Recorded wind speed at its worst - 217 kms per hour!  I cannot imagine what the residents of Grand Bahamas and Haiti went through.
 

Some history is in order:  Since 1851 there have only been 7 hurricanes within 45 miles of Bermuda.  The only other Cat 4 in recent history was in 1939.  To add to our woes: Hurricane Nicole was hot on the heels of Hurricane Matthew - the first time ever recorded that two Cat 4 hurricanes circled in the Atlantic Ocean at the same time in the month of October.   And of all the months and years to hit, we became the lucky recipients.   What are the odds!

In the aftermath of the storm, we surveyed the damage that surrounded us.  Plants have been stripped bare of any greenery.  Sorrowful trees with bare branches or just a few fronds of palm stand as sad sentinels on all the laneways.  Leaves on certain shrubs and trees have become a crisp, dried brown as if frost bitten.  This damage occurs due to wind velocity sucking all moisture from the leaves, leaving them scorched and shriveled.   Let's hope they recover soon.

And so we have borne witness to a pretty unique phenomenon.  We can place a checkmark in a box of our experiences to date - it just wasn't on our bucket list. 

AND NOW FOR NEWS ON HURRICANE MATTHEW

The photos depict hurricane damage in Freeport, Grand Bahamas.

Well, life has returned to normal here in Bermuda.  Hurricane Nicole thundered out of the island, leaving some damage in her wake - but thankfully, no lives lost and minimal injuries.  Mostly downed trees and power lines, scorched shrubs and a few boats and yachts sunk or tossed onto land.  We are very relieved.  The winds blew at 217 km per hour at one point - quite scary.  The only real consequence to us was the loss of internet for about 4 days.  And that was only Category 2 and 3. 

Who would have guessed we would be the lucky recipients of two hurricanes on two different islands.  On October 7 2016 - whilst celebrating our 38th Wedding Anniversary at the Beach House Restaurant - our property manager in Freeport, Grand Bahamas sent us photos of the damage to our home.  

Our condo is very close to the coast line and on one of the canals.  Unfortunately, we were one of the many direct hits with our home suffering extensive damage from the Category 4/5 storm.  With sustained wind speeds in excess of  145 mph (233 kilometres per hour!!) structures on the island appear to have been severely damaged.  One of the most powerful storms in the history of the island walloped us all.

Our condo lost its roof and rain deluged the interior of the house.  Ceilings, a/c, carpets and furniture all took a beating.  Fortunately, no injuries to tenants, so we are thankful for small mercies.   

I will update this blog when I have more news. 

October 18, 2016: The island is currently without power and in some places, without water as well.  Some of the hotels are functioning but we have been told that there are no vacancies as they are full with hydro crews and electricians from the mainland who have come to help islanders get back on track.  So we will bide our time, but will be going down as soon as possible to help co-ordinate clean up and rebuilding.  Another silver lining is we have locals on our condo board who will direct efforts, and we have a good property manager who has diligently stayed in contact with us.

Our manager salvaged some of the furniture and stacked it in the second bedroom which is the only room still intact.  The condo board is working with the insurance company. This will be a long and slow process - we will have to wait in line for roof/electrical contractors to repair the damage.  In the meanwhile, let's hope that that was the last of the hurricanes for Grand Bahamas for awhile.


October 24, 2016:  Due to mold issues all of the drywall has been removed, ceilings torn down, and carpets ripped up.  The insurance claim continues to be negotiated.  We still can't get to the island.  

October 28th, 2016:  We have finally managed to book seats on a flight to Bahamas - we will arrive on Sunday November 5.  Let's hope we can get things moving.

The saga continues.

38TH WEDDING ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION

It is hard to believe that 38 years have gone by - it feels like just the other day that we were newlyweds.  Living in South Africa, in Hillbrow, Johannesburg in a 13th floor apartment furnished with a mix of homemade, second-hand pine, or damaged goods purchased through an insurance company.  Our little blue Volksie - that always required a push start, and was never the faithful steed - always puttering to a stop at some inconvenient green light.  Two kittens - Duke the tabby, picked up at the train station; and Chanelle, the Siamese, brought home for her company. 

We had fun though - scraped by on minimum wage salaries, trotting through to  my parents on weekends for the good meals and comforts of home.   I was still experimenting with cooking, so remember many burnt offerings tossed away.   Remember our first gardening experience - pots of geraniums on the balcony.   

Thirty years ago, we flew across the world to take up our new lives in Canada with our two baby daughters and our two cats in tow, forever divided from the rest of our family.   We slowly caught up with our lives, settled down, and watched as time flew by.  Our girls went from toddlers to teenagers in lightning leaps.  And before we knew it, we were scrambling for university fees and embracing boyfriends and future husbands.

And now we sit at the Beach House Restaurant celebrating our 38th year, watching the sun go down on Bermuda.  Our children are married, starting on their own journey.  We have grandchildren now - a wonderful adventure.  And life has taken on a more sedate pace as we watch retirement looming before us. 

We are grateful for the love we have shared and continue to count on.  We are grateful for our health, our well-adjusted children, our adventures.  We appreciate the comforts of homes we have had in Burlington, Bahamas and Bermuda - and all the other places in between.  We have been very lucky.

                                                    We are truly blessed.  

BUS TALES CHAPTER TWO

I love my bus rides.  A opportunity to unwind.  A chance to appreciate the beautiful ocean views, the blue skies, and the lush green tropical blooms and palm trees.  I can practice mindfulness, (not that I need to these days), or I can use the time to plan, and make lists.  More often, it is a time to daydream.

Bus rides also provide the best opportunities for people watching.  You get to see just how small this island really is - people get on the bus and exchange enthusiastic greetings with other islanders they haven't seen in awhile.  There seems to always be someone who sits up front with the driver to chat - with conversations that range from family catch ups, to  community news of "Did you see!", and "Did you know".  And even full blown debates on the state of the world.  

Then there are the tourists.  They climb on with a bewildered look, hesitatingly produce a ticket or bus pass that they hope will allow them on the ride. And always the questions - the bus driver definitely acts as a tour guide: "Next stop - Chrystal Caves - entrance is on your left through the green archway".   I have seen that backfire a few times when the poor bus driver has been distracted (usually talking to the person in the seat closest to him) - "Oops, the stop for Spittal Pond is about two back".  Some tourists are unceremoniously dropped at the nearest intersection, others are told to take another bus and reverse their journey.  Some kind drivers will stop the bus on the other side of the road and everyone will wait patiently until the tourists are back on track. 

Last week an older gentleman sat next to me and proceeded to nod off.  When he opened his eyes again, he exclaimed that he was supposed to get off at Grotto Bay - three stops back.  He got off at the next stop and commented to me that he would never hear the end of this from his friends who were now waiting for him back there. 

The funniest event - sitting behind two people - one young man is Bermudian, the other young man obviously a tourist.  Not a word between them until the tourist pipes up:  "Are you a native?"  Slight pause before the Bermudian replies: "No, I was born here".  Dead silence for the rest of the journey.  Certainly a commendation for good manners though.

Ah yes, and so the world turns.   
Happy travels everyone.